This article was taken from the March 2016 issue of Wired magazine. Be the first to read Wired's articles in print before they're posted online, and get your hands on loads of additional content by subscribing online.

WIRED asked Michelin-starred chef Atul Kochhar -- patron of renowned Mayfair restaurant Benares -- to put four pressure cookers to the test.

To see how the cookers perform under pressure, Kochhar recorded how long it took to prepare his classic dal makhani, usually slow-cooked and braised overnight. Each model was also rated on its design and ergonomics, versatility, ease of use and safety, and given a WIRED score out of ten.

Pressure cookers claim to save energy by reducing cooking times by up to 60 per cent, but will they be able to do justice to Kochhal’s signature dish?

Raymond Blanc Cookware

Kochhar was impressed with the Raymond Blanc Cookware's ergonomic design: "the one-handed lid operation was very comfortable and the design easy to use. The cooker works well for meat" he continued, "but the veg wasn't as good as I'd have liked." 9/10 £100

Time taken to make recipe 27 minutes Capacity 5.5 litres Material Stainless steel

Designed with a deep lid for larger joints, the Prestige Aluminium has 5lb, 10lb and 15lb settings. "It cooked my dish in the shortest time, which was impressive, but it was bulky. I'm not keen on its traditional safety valve operation, either." 7/10 £74.99https://www.lakeland.co.uk/

Time taken to make recipe 23 minutes Capacity 6 litres Material Aluminium

Kuhn Rikon

It took the longest to make the dal but the Kuhn Rikon achieved a good consistency. "It felt safe," says Kochhar. "And practical for a family of four." A cone-shaped lid reduces how much steam is needed. 6/10 £104.99

Time taken to make recipe 28 minutes Capacity 5 litres Material Stainless steel

Tefal Clipso Plus

Kochhar was impressed by the Tefal Clipso Plus' good-quality design and sturdiness. It comes with a steaming basket, and has two cooking programmes. "I love the shape and one-hand operation," says Kochhar. 8/10 £140

Time taken to make recipe 25 minutes Capacity 6 litres Material Aluminium and stainless steel

Ingredients(Serves four)

• 150g whole urid (black) dal • 50g dried red kidney beans • 1 green chilli, chopped • 2cm piece of fresh ginger, peeled and chopped • 1tbsp sunflower oil • 1tsp cumin seeds • 5 garlic cloves, finely chopped • 1tbsp ground coriander • 1tsp red chilli powder • 1tsp ground fenugreek • 1tsp garam masala • 1 large onion, finely chopped • 150ml passata • 1tbsp tomato purée • 1tbsp lemon juice • 45g butter •100ml single cream • sea salt

Method

• A day ahead, soak the dal and kidney beans together overnight in 600ml cold water to cover by 2.5cm.
• The next day, drain and rinse the dal and kidney beans, then put them in a saucepan with double their depth of fresh salted water. Bring to the boil and boil hard for ten minutes, then skim the surface, add the green chilli and ginger and simmer over a low heat for 50 minutes, or until both are very tender. Set aside to cool in the liquid and they will continue to absorb liquid as they cool.
• Heat the oil in a saucepan, add the cumin seeds and sauté over a medium heat until they crackle. Add the garlic and sauté until light brown in colour. Add the onion and sauté for 8-10 minutes until they are light brown.
• Add the coriander, chilli powder, fenugreek and garam masala, and sauté for a further minute, then add the passata and tomato purée. Reduce the heat to very low and simmer, stirring frequently, for 10-15 minutes until blended. Stir in the cooked dal and kidney beans with any remaining liquid and bring to the boil, then simmer, uncovered, for a further 12-15 minutes, stirring frequently, until thickened. Set aside until required. At this point the dal can be left to cool and chilled for up to two days.
• Just before serving, reheat if necessary, stir in the lemon juice, butter and single cream with salt to taste.

This article was originally published by WIRED UK