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This article was taken from the February 2014 issue of Wired magazine. Be the first to read Wired's articles in print before they're posted online, and get your hands on loads of additional content by subscribing online.
What is sous vide?
French for "under vacuum", sous vide is a method of cooking food in an airtight plastic pouch immersed in water at a precise temperature, often for long periods of time -- up to 72 hours. This helps to lock in the food's nutrients and leaves it cooked completely evenly, as well as tender and full of flavour.
The technique was developed in the mid-70s by chef Georges Pralus at Troisgros (currently Maison Troisgros) in Roanne, France, and is now used in professional kitchens around the world. Any type of food, including meat, vegetables and eggs, can be cooked via the sous-vide method.
How we tested
Michelin-star chef Tom Sellers at Story tested four sous vide water-bath machines. Sellers individually prepared three foods: Jerusalem artichokes, cod fillet, and oxtail, sealed in pouches. Each machine was judged on practicality, ease of use, how well it performed during a two-day cook and how the foods actually tasted. Water-loss over a 12-hour period was also measured for each machine, as was how long tap water took to reach 85C.
Giles & Posner sous videThe least expensive machine in test, the Giles & Posner has a timer, an accurate thermometer and a lid -- although the lid's poor design meant Sellers had to put cling film over the bowl after 24 hours to help seal it shut. After this evasive action, the oxtail still didn't come out to Sellers's taste.
Wired: Affordable price-tag
Tired: Ill-fitting lid; aesthetics
Cost: £99
Specifications
Water loss over 12 hrs
18 percent
How long tap water took to reach 85°C
30 mins
Water capacity
5.7l
Dimensions
24cm x 20cm x 28cm
Max temperature
100C
This device turns Gastronorm tanks and cooking pots into sous vide baths. "It's ideal for large volumes of water and it seems pretty hard-wearing," says Sellers. "The element may be prone to limescale, but the cod, artichokes and oxtail were perfectly cooked -- and it was a joy to use."
Wired: Professional choice; quality build
Tired: High price; requires space
Cost: £625
Specifications
Water loss over 12 hrs
22 percent
How long tap water took to reach 85C
25 mins
Water capacity
50l
Dimensions
30cm x 10cm x 10cm
Max temperature
100C
The Supreme has an attractive design with a snug-fitting lid, timer, recipe book and DVD. "It's great for the home or commercial kitchen," says Sellers. "And the stainless-steel rack allows you to cook big pieces of meat." Of all three foods cooked in this model, Sellers thought the oxtail came out best.
Wired: Minimal water-loss
Tired: Tricky to empty after use
Cost: £372
Specifications
Water loss over 12 hrs
Six percent
How long tap water took to reach 85C
33 mins
Water capacity
11l
Dimensions
29cm x 29cm x 36cm
Max temperature
100C
This Kickstarter-funded gadget's USP is that it attaches to nearly any pot, thus turning it into a sous vide machine. "It's easy to use. You just press the top, twist and go - very simple," says Sellers. However, it lost the water-evaporation test owing to its lack of lid, which took the water level to below the minimum.
Wired: Sharp design; ease of use
Tired: Regular topping-up required
Cost: $299 (£180)
Specifications
Water loss over 12 hrs
24 percent
How long tap water took to reach 85C
36 mins
Water capacity
10l
Dimensions
31cm x 5cm x 5cm
Max temperature
100C
This article was originally published by WIRED UK
