How This Woman Paints Hyperrealistic Nail Art
Released on 06/30/2022
[Narrator] This woman uses tiny brushes
to create ultra-realistic portraits
that are just an inch tall and half an inch wide
on a curved canvas.
My name is Vivian Xue Rahey and I am a nail art scientist.
[Narrator] That's right, nail art science.
This is not your grandma's manicure.
Secret messages that glow in the dark,
thermochromic paints that change color,
and ultra realistic portraits that you have
to see to believe.
I was just sitting at a restaurant
and I had Dwight Schrute on my nails
and somebody came up to me and was like, Is that Dwight?
And I'm like, It sure is!
That's one thing I love about nails because,
as long as I've done this, I've not failed
to have people have this really vivacious reaction to it.
It's never like, Oh, that's pretty cool.
It's like, Oh my God!
[upbeat music]
[Producer] Okay, this is weird,
but has anyone asked you to do nails for their pet?
No, not for a pet, but we have been asked
to do nails for dead bodies.
[Narrator] Wait, what?
There are some people that have put me actually
on their funeral wishlist and,
I have to have nails from Vivian.
Don't disrespect me by putting other nails
on or something. [laughs]
[Narrator] Okay, let's back up.
In 2016, Vivian was working as a software engineer,
painting her own nails during her free time.
I was doing crazy stuff
like painting Arnold Schwartzenegger,
the Terminator movies on my nails or painting stuff
that people just normally wouldn't really get.
I see a lot of people doing pretty stuff
or princess-y stuff and I'm like,
No, dude, let's put Rush Hour 2 on my nails,
so it kind of resonated with a lot of different audiences
as opposed to just nails as a pretty accessory.
[Narrator] Within a few months,
she had over a million followers on TikTok.
People started DMing, asking for various things like,
Can I get this character? Can I get this portrait?
Oh my God, can you do that for me?
Oh my God, I'm super into that too.
Or, Oh my God, you should open a shop,
or something like that.
I love doing portraits.
Portraits is my favorite thing to do.
I've done Hagrid and Dumbledore
with Snape and Lupin and McGonagall.
I've done Post Malone, Billy Eilish.
I did do a Bob Ross, Grogu. Also done Mando.
I do have an affinity for villains.
I did the Night King from Game of Thrones, the Terminator.
I've also done Voldemort.
[Narrator] Something to keep in mind
with Vivian's portraits, her canvas is curved.
The artwork then goes on a moving hand
that's meant to be seen from many different angles.
Well, I have to almost architect it
so that the positioning of it is conducive
to viewing it from all different types of angles.
I've done a ton of Marvel characters,
Thor and Loki, Wanda Maximoff.
The ones that I have on right now,
which is all three Spidermen.
Oh my gosh, I almost forgot about my Thanos nails.
I loved that set because it was the iconic,
you know, him with the Infinity Gauntlet.
I was able to do a little video where I snapped.
My face and character painting technique is rooted
in spatial awareness and dot plotting.
I work from the center outward
so that there's room to make corrections.
And so what I do is I use different facial features
as anchors for another facial feature.
So I'll, say, start with one eyebrow.
And then from that eyebrow,
I can swing from one vine to the next so I'm not
just looking at this overwhelmingly complex subject.
I collect data and the more data that I have,
the more accurately I can place the next feature
and so on and so forth.
The materials that I use
are actually very carefully curated over the years.
I mainly use Japanese brands
of gel paints as my base colors.
I actually started off, I modeled my color collection
off of a watercolor palette.
I figure if real artists who work on canvas
can actually use just these limited amount of colors
to make everything that they need, then why couldn't I?
If Bob Ross can do it, why can't I do it?
In terms of other materials that I like to use,
the Freddy Krueger set that I did,
I was able to use this nude colored builder gel
that is actually used to build nail extensions
to create this fleshiness for his face.
I got to use jelly red to get
that kinda runny blood look to it.
I will use thermochromic pigments
and essentially what happens
is the molecular structure changes
when you expose it to either heat or cold.
And one of my favorite ones is something I like
to call my invisibility pigment
and it's something that changes from black to colorless.
I painted a portrait of Sirius Black.
So what I did was because Sirius perished behind the veil,
I was able to cover up his portrait using
this black to colorless thermal pigment.
And when you exposed him to a little bit of heat,
the black pigment went away and you can kind of see
like a white haze over him and it actually made him look
like he is behind the veil.
[Narrator] Painting with a brush
of only a few millimeters long,
Vivian's portraits can take hours or even days.
Usually the portraiture takes about five to six hours
for just the portrait alone,
but when I get an idea that's stuck in my head,
I will stay up all night to do it
because I'm that laser focused and I enjoy doing it so much.
Moana took me 16 hours.
The death of Sirius Black took 18 hours.
King T'Challa, including the ancestral plane,
took about 10 hours.
The Anastasia nails took seven hours.
The Howl's Moving Castle took seven hours.
Little Mermaid took me six and a half hours.
[Narrator] Jasmine and Rajah took her five hours.
This glow in the dark Happy Haunt set took 11 hours.
The Alicia Silverstone Clueless set took 6.5 hours.
Jurassic Park and Lord of the Rings each took over 10 hours.
Once, she spent 40 hours on a single set of nails.
The 40 hour project was a set of Encanto nails.
The customer wanted every single character,
so it was the entire family Madrigal
and it had also their glowing doors
with their powers and their little symbols and stuff.
And I also had a separate section where I did
single nails that pieced together like a puzzle.
And when you put those four nails together,
you could see that it was the prophecy all put together.
Today, I am working on a portrait of Anakin Skywalker
as he is turning to the Dark Side.
We're gonna have half of Hayden Christensen's face
and the other half will be the Darth Vader helmet.
One of the most challenging parts about this one
is that he's kinda turned a little bit,
which is kinda tough because my nail is super curved
and I also have to fabricate some form of shadows.
But right now it's just a lot of blending and a lot
of looking back and forth at the canvas
to make sure that everything from nostril placement
to placement of a specific shadow is all
in line with his facial features.
And because the Dark Side has the red lightsabers,
I want to have kind of a more distinctive red glow
on his face.
So these are gel paints.
It's similar to if you go to a nail salon
and you get gel polish.
It really quickly dries and the way that you dry it
is you use an LED or a UV lamp.
It triggers a chemical reaction
in the gel and dries the polish.
So when I'm working with these textures,
sometimes I need to paint on top of dried paints
and sometimes I need to keep blending
and so I'll just leave it wet and I won't cure
until I need something to be completely solidified
and so it varies a lot when I'm doing these types
of portrait processes.
What happens when I mess up?
Everyone loves to ask me that question.
Because I move so calculatedly,
I don't really have any major mistakes.
I think it's like I will early detect
if something is going awry.
With portraits, you don't just look down all of a sudden
and it's like, Oh my God, the whole thing looks bad,
so I don't really make mistakes like that anymore
because I just learned to check back and forth a lot.
[Producer] Why did you do Magnum condoms?
[laughs]
I love reproducing packaging because I think it's kind
of an exercise into how I can get texts
to look really accurate and how I can even replicate
weird designs on cans or on bottles.
So I did Magnum XL nails for Valentine's Day
and I tweeted at them and I was like,
Just doing my part, guys.
And then they sent me a ton of condoms [laughs]
and so I was like, Okay, thank you!
So we actually put it out for clients to take,
which was kind of awkward, but also really funny
at the same time.
I'm really proud of that Lysol nail.
I painted that at the height of the pandemic
and I think it ended up in a meme
and Snoop Dogg reposted it
and I thought that was the coolest thing.
He didn't tag me, though.
But, you know, Snoop, I see you. That was really cool!
[Narrator] Vivian's success quickly got her to the point
of receiving more custom nail requests
than she could possibly handle alone,
so she began hiring and training other talented artists
to collaborate with.
I started Pamper Nail Gallery and we're based
in the San Francisco Bay area, but we ship nails worldwide.
We've had people order from Dubai,
we've had people order from Shanghai,
we've had people order from the Yukon territory,
so it's pretty much all over the place at this point.
[Narrator] The requests they get keep them on their toes.
There will be people who will make an entire brochure.
There would be people who maybe,
they plan out a wedding set
and they'll have reference photos
and they'll show me their entire life.
There was a dad who ended up sending 40,000 photos
of his daughter growing up.
And he's like, Yeah, just create something, you know,
get to know her and then create something.
We were like, How do we do that?
So it's definitely challenging because people like
to throw curve balls.
It's not just like, Oh, I want Lion King nails.
It's like, Yeah, I want Lion King nails,
but I also want you to explore the depth of the relationship
between these two characters and make it look
like the relationship that I have with my brother.
And we're like, Oh my God,
this is actually getting really deep.
[Narrator] But for Vivian, it's worth it.
Creating wearable art based on these iconic characters
gives her a chance to create community.
I would say that I'm a nerd.
I think that's something to be proud of.
I would much rather talk
about my obsessions and interests with people
and I think that it really cultivates deeper friendships
and relationships because of that shared fandom
or that shared obsession.
So that's actually one of the things I love about it
as a form of self-expression
because it's such a personal experience.
Because I'm looking at my hands all the time
and I pretty much enjoy the most
out of the work that I put in.
And I think the customers of mine see that too,
is that they get it but it's mostly like they enjoy it
for themselves and if somebody happens to get a peak at it,
it's such a moment of instant comradery
because it's like Oh my God, I'm super into that too!
It just really connects people
through a lot of their kind of personal obsessions.
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